AOW Insider | Interview with Marcella Echavarria

This month, Annie interviewed with Marcella Echavarria and Kavita Parmar, who just wrapped up TEXTO, so I thought it would be fun to share a quick recap for those of you who were not able to make it. If you aren't familiar, TEXTO was a global gathering of artists and advocates for the artisan sector that took place this past winter in Mexico City. Products were sold from master artists and a lot of conversations were had on the current and future state of the sector.

If you aren’t' familiar with Marcella, she has been working with artisans for many years. She’s a consultant for UNESCO, the United Nations, IDB, and other leading brands related to textiles, tourism, and sustainability. Kavita is a recognized activist and speaker from India living in Spain, Kavita uses design as a tool to express her point of view on the current situation of the fashion system, where individuals have lost their identity as creators in the midst of the unbridled race towards mass production and consumerism. Knowing their depth of experience, I was very curious to hear their thoughts on the pandemic and what this means for the sector. We talked about that as well as the importance of visual storytelling, insights on branding, and the advantages that artisan brands have over other industries. Read more below.

ME: Texto2020 was imagined as a mix between Burning Man, a TED Talk and a celebration among good friends. Kavita and I have been partners on several projects throughout the years. We have been slowly developing Xtant, a platform where we are putting forward our thoughts about the future and our vision of the handmade world. Texto2020 was part of this larger project.

The selection process was very simple: master artisans who we had met over the years and trusted in their integrity, commitment to their craft and activism in their communities. Looking back, they turned out to be our good friends from many lifetimes. Within the immense universe of textiles, we focused on heritage textiles, which we defined as living crafts that continue from the past as carriers of cultural heritage. I remember Kavita referring to ‘Noah’s Ark’ and how we would select those textiles that we wanted to save. 

KP: We dreamt of this being a global gathering of people we personally knew from the world of handcrafted, sustainable and heritage textiles. We designed every detail of the event for them to be inspired, to commune with others, and to be able to dream big ideas together. It’s the kind of nourishment for the soul that most artisans and activists never have time for. Who would have known the timing would turn out to be so crucial?!

What were the biggest takeaways from the show? And what surprised you?  

ME: Texto2020 surpassed all our expectations and forecasts. We received 5000 visitors; our roundtables were all packed; the gala dinner, concert by Julieta Venegas and keynote speech by Vandana Shiva were sold out. Many participants sold out of their products on the first day. Many international visitors who came to Zona Maco mentioned that TEXTO2020 was the highlight of art week in Mexico for them!

The greatest takeaway were the bonds and friendships that were woven among the participants. As Sanjay Garg from Raw Mango put it: “what a wonderful time. It is kind of similar to spending summer vacation in your grandparent’s home”. Or as Lee Chinalai, from ChinalaiModern put is: “TEXTO seems a long way and yet very close” or Chinar Faroqui from Injiri, “Texto seems like a dream, a fairytale.”

KP: For me, the biggest takeaway was the camaraderie that was created between everyone who attend, the sense of belonging, and the absolute lack of cynicism.

Considering all that is happening in the world today, what advice do you have for both entrepreneurs working with artists and the artists themselves? Do you think its best to simply put things on pause and wait for this to pass? Or, what do you suggest people can do in the meantime, as a way to stay afloat, motivated, and hopeful? 

ME: This pandemic and the inevitable recession will be very difficult on everyone. However, the handmade world has a few advantages. The main one is connected to the very nature of everything handmade. When thinking about a specific design or a color combination, the mind is at ease and the hands are occupied. There is also the advantage of small scale, as many of these entrepreneurs are families working together and many complement this kind of work with other jobs. Flexibility and the possibility of reinvention will be crucial in this new world.

As far as what to do now, I think it is a very good moment to connect with the “why”, the motivation, the inspiration. I am particularly fascinated by how Injiri is using this time to narrate their inspiration and references in rural India as the “why” behind their brand. This is a great time for storytelling and brand building.

KP: I think and hope we as a species will come out of this chapter more attuned with nature and more empathetic towards our fellow beings. This is the moment to have faith. Think long term and help the ones right next to you. That is what will make the difference. Even if your business disappears in its current shape in the shakedown that awaits us, let us use this moment to reexamine, realign and reinforce so we can reimagine a new world. How many times have people collectively been given this chance?

What do you think this pandemic means for the sector? 

ME: This is a wake-up call, a reset, a return to the origin. This unfortunately will happen at the expense of many businesses that grew out of proportion and are no longer relevant. This time also reminds us of the importance of makers and the fact that they have been invisible or poorly treated throughout history. It is heartbreaking to see the way migrant workers were sent back to their villages in India with no pay, no food and no respect. Makers are as important as farmers, they create beauty and without it, we cannot be called humans. I also think this pandemic marks the death of the nonsense of the art world. Meaning, craftsmanship and realness will be called forward and appreciated more than ever.

KP: Our industry has been very resistant to change as it has a lot of inertia. This pause is the perfect opportunity to start from scratch. It gives us the opportunity to separate clearly the wheat from the chaff. Any company, organization, or individual that goes back to business as usual is missing their chance to be newly relevant for the future. 

What have you been reading, listening to, and filling your time with to stay balanced and healthy? 

ME: I am now in Colombia with my family following a very simple routine: cooking, cleaning, exercising and and envisioning the future with Kavita Parmar. In my very limited free time, I am reading about fermentation and how microorganisms are the connecting link between the world of the living and the world of the dead (Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz). I’m also working on my brand Noir handmade (www.noir-handmade.com). 

KP: The first three weeks of March I have been absolutely unproductive in the traditional sense as I was absorbing the scale of this. I oscillated between worrying about my loved ones and overdosing on the information. Then something shifted and this past week I can barely sleep from the excitement of the possibilities this presents us. Who knows how I will be next week?!

What should businesses be doing in this current moment? 

ME: This is not a moment to sell anything. It is a moment to tell stories and reconnect with the essence of your craft/brand. 

KP: I know many of us are struggling with our business responsibilities and commitments but I strongly suggest to pause, reach out with honesty and love to everyone around you – be it your staff or your customers. Admit that you don’t know what is going to happen, that you are as sacred as they are, but that you commit that you will do the best you can for everyone once the mist is cleared. We will need everyone’s help to rebuild. The best way to do that is to be honest and transparent. 

Any other thoughts you would like to share? 

ME: I cannot speak for everyone, but I feel that this is a once in a lifetime opportunity to be aligned with our core moral values. To think long term and not worry about who is to blame. To allow your right hemisphere to take the lead and think as ‘we’ and not ‘I’. 

KP: As Marcella says, “everything is personal.” So are we.

For more info visit: www.marcellaechavarria.com / www.instagram.com/marcellaechavarria

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